Vines of India: From Ancient Roots to a Modern Industry

Historical Beginnings

The history of wine in India dates back thousands of years, although its trajectory has been anything but linear. Ancient texts from the Mauryan period (4th–2nd century BCE) reference alcoholic beverages, including grape-based drinks enjoyed by royalty. However, wine as we know it today had little presence in the subcontinent for centuries, as other traditional alcoholic drinks like toddy, feni, and arrack dominated.

The first major steps toward establishing a wine culture came during British colonial rule when European settlers introduced vineyards for table and sacramental wines. However, after independence in 1947, wine production stagnated as spirits like whisky became the preferred choice for Indian consumers.

It wasn’t until the 1980s that India saw the emergence of a modern wine industry. Visionary entrepreneurs such as Chateau Indage, Grover Vineyards, and later Sula Vineyards began experimenting with international grape varieties, laying the foundation for what would become a thriving industry. By the 2000s, changing lifestyles, urbanisation, and a growing middle class with exposure to global trends created a domestic market for wine. This shift marked the beginning of India’s serious engagement with winemaking.

Key Wine Regions

India’s wine regions are as diverse as its culture, with climates ranging from tropical to semi-arid. The heart of the Indian wine industry lies in Maharashtra, but other states, particularly Karnataka, Goa, and Tamil Nadu, have also emerged as important players.

The Nashik Valley in Maharashtra is often referred to as the “Wine Capital of India.” Located about 160 kilometres from Mumbai, Nashik benefits from its elevation and temperate climate, which are ideal for growing grapes. The region is home to Sula Vineyards, York Winery, and several other notable producers. These vineyards dominate the Indian market, producing a wide array of reds, whites, rosés, and sparkling wines.

Karnataka, particularly the Nandi Hills near Bangalore, is another significant wine-producing region. The altitude here contributes to cooler temperatures and slower ripening, resulting in wines with balanced acidity. Grover Zampa Vineyards, headquartered in Bangalore, has become a symbol of Karnataka’s wine success, earning accolades for its premium offerings like La Réserve, a barrel-aged red blend.

Hampi Hills, an emerging region in Karnataka, has gained recognition for its unique terroir, which lends distinctive characteristics to its wines. Meanwhile, smaller regions like Sangli and Pune in Maharashtra, along with Goa, are also contributing to the diversity of Indian wine.

Grape Varieties and Wine Styles

India’s wineries cultivate a mix of international and indigenous grape varieties. Among reds, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon dominate, producing wines with bold flavours and complexity. Merlot and Tempranillo are also grown, often blended to create approachable, easy-drinking styles. For whites, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier are the most popular, offering a spectrum of flavours from crisp and citrusy to aromatic and floral.

Sparkling wines have become a standout category in India, with producers like Sula and Chandon India (a subsidiary of Moët Hennessy) excelling in méthode traditionnelle sparkling wines. These wines, made from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and local varieties, have gained both domestic and international acclaim.

The Indian palate, traditionally inclined toward sweeter flavours, has also influenced wine production. Semi-sweet rosés and dessert wines made from late-harvest Chenin Blanc cater to a growing segment of consumers new to wine. As the market matures, wineries are increasingly experimenting with drier and more complex styles to cater to discerning enthusiasts.

Challenges

The Indian wine industry has faced its share of hurdles. High excise duties and inconsistent regulatory policies across states have long been barriers to growth. Despite these challenges, the industry has managed to thrive, driven by innovation and a focus on quality. Climate remains another obstacle. The tropical and semi-arid conditions in many regions necessitate careful vineyard management to avoid issues like fungal diseases and uneven ripening. Irrigation, often essential in India, adds to production costs.

Consumer awareness is another area that requires development. While urban centres like Mumbai, Bangalore, and Delhi have embraced wine culture, rural areas still lack familiarity with wine as a lifestyle product. However, initiatives such as wine festivals, tastings, and tourism are helping bridge this gap.

Wine Tourism and Cultural Shifts

Wine tourism has emerged as a vital pillar of the Indian wine industry. The scenic vineyards of Nashik and Nandi Hills have become popular weekend destinations for urban dwellers. SulaFest, an annual music and wine festival hosted by Sula Vineyards, attracts thousands of visitors, blending wine appreciation with entertainment. Similarly, Grover Zampa’s vineyard tours and tastings have become a must-visit for enthusiasts exploring Bangalore.

This cultural shift is reflective of a broader change in how Indians perceive wine. Once considered a niche luxury, wine is now viewed as an everyday indulgence, particularly among younger generations. With this shift, India’s urban middle class is driving demand for both entry-level wines and premium labels.

What’s Next?

The future of the Indian wine industry looks promising. With annual wine consumption growing steadily, India is projected to become one of the fastest-expanding wine markets globally. The country’s wine exports are also on the rise, with Indian wines making their mark at international competitions.

Sustainability is becoming a key focus, with wineries adopting eco-friendly practices such as organic farming, water conservation, and solar energy. Research into climate-resilient grape varieties and innovative winemaking techniques will further enhance India’s position as a global wine producer.